Recently in Dining Out: Hawaii

The same phenomenon happens all over. A new restaurants opens, everyone writes about it and--as long as the food is decent--it coasts on that popularity for a year or two before crowds begin to taper off. 12th Avenue Grill breaks that common cycle by still going strong after nearly four years, consistently filling tables night after night. The cozy dining room "hides" on a small alley between 12th Avenue and Kokohead in Kaimuki, one block makai of Waialae Avenue, sandwiched between mutiple municipal parking lots. Stepping inside, the warm lighting and dark wood booths make the outside world recede far away.

The 12th Avenue Grill menu has shifted and matured over time but remains true to the focus on contemporary American cuisine, or as I think of it, comfort food with style. Long-time favorites like the Kimchee Marinated Skirt Steak and Hickory Roasted Organic King Salmon have been rotated out while other trademarks like the Baked Macaroni and Cheese remain stalwart. I think they'd have a revolt if they stopped their trademark mac 'n cheese.

Fig salad, Pan-seared Ahi and Porter Spareribs

The Baked Macaroni and Cheese ($5.95, not pictured) bathes elbow macaroni with a smooth mixture of smoked Parmesan and Pecorino cheeses then tops it with crunchy bread crumbs to turn this kiddie classic into an adult favorite. Add Alii mushroom for $2 and Black Forest ham for $2.50 for even more substance. Seriously, this is one of the best mac and cheeses ever. You owe it to yourself to give it a try.

Over the numerous visits we've sampled most of the menu and now find ourselves drawn to the seasonal specials board. For our salad course, we shared a Big Island Fig Salad with Apple Cider Bacon, Maytag Bleu Cheese, frisée, aged balsamic and hazelnuts($10). Each ingredient was well-balanced with the others. The sweetness of the fig and the crispy-edged bacon keep the cheese from overpowering.

My wife selected Pan-Seared Ahi for her entree ($22). The generous block of medium rare ahi was topped with cucumber basil salsa and corn shoots then served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, Big Island fern shoots and an olive tapendade. It all sounds more complicated than it is. The flavors are understated in a way that features the freshness of the fish and fern shoots.

I was wavering between the cinnamon-braised shortribs and the special porter beer-braised bone-in shortribs ($21/each) until learning that the latter were braised with Kona Brewing Companies Pipeline Porter. Yum. The preparation was rich with the coffee and chocolate of the beer and served with roasted potatoes and Big Island carrots ($21). The next diners over called back their order and switched to the special shortribs after noticing my plate and how the meat falls right off the bone at first touch of a fork. (We generally sit at the chef's counter when we come. The experience is both more social, and allows us to sometimes sneak in without a reservation.)

The desserts at 12th Avenue are very good without being transcendent. They offer their own take on panna cotta, bread pudding, molten chocolate cake and fruit crisps (each $6.95, not pictured) sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Each was rock solid, but I had the sense that they were picked more for their popularity than from an attempt to do something new.

But then, that's really what 12th Avenue Grill is all about--timeless dishes prepared with just enough creativity to keep them fresh, but never so much variation as to offend one's sense of what it should be. Comfort food with style.

12th Avenue Grill
http://www.12thavegrill.com/
1145C 12th Avenue
Kaimuki, HI 96816
(808)732-9469
Hours: Mon-Thu 5:30-9pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10pm, closed Sundays

Other sites:
→ Midweek gushes over Chef Hanney and his specials
→ After a lukewarm first visit, 12th Ave wins over HawaiiDiner

There's still time to enter your name in my raffle to win the new cookbook by Iron Chef Morimoto. Do it, you won't regret it!

An evening at Bali by the Sea is more than just a nice meal out. It's a trip to an earlier era, a time when dining was a classy affair. The first clue is the world class panoramic views looking out over the Pacific. The dining room decor is dated but nice, with tables for two under pools of cozy light, topped with white linens and heavy silverware. Pairs of waiters move discretely around the room in white dinner jackets and aquamarine bow ties to match the water outside. The guests have a dress code of their own: collared shirts, slacks and covered shoes for men, skirts or slacks for the ladies. Leave your board shorts and slippahs at home, this place has old school sophistication.

The menu is described as Pacific Rim cuisine but leans strongly towards tried-and-true preparations like insalata caprese, boullabaisse, filet mignon and rack of lamb. In each case, the classic dishes are given a small contemporary twist and include ingredients from around Hawaii.

For our meal we decided to both try the Chef's Five Course Tasting Menu, one with wine pairings ($90) and one without ($65). Before launching into the tasting menu itself, we were presented with a basket of lavosh, a baguette and Irish soda bread, each solid examples of their type. Next came the amuse bouche of baked brie crowned with a plump raspberry. Designed to be eaten in a single bite, it was a sublime combination of smoky cheese against the sweet/tart berry. We were off to a great start, and the official tasting menu hadn't yet begun.

The first course of the evening was a Hawaiian ahi tartare on crostini with Nalo petite greens and wasabi aioli. The ahi was to die for, light and pillowy to a degree I've never tasted, especially since ahi is a dense, meaty fish. The greens provided visual accent without contributing to the flavors, but that was forgivable. The star of this plate was the ahi.

The pace of the service was was impeccable throughout the evening, never too fast or slow. We were given time to savor each course appropriately and then just as we started to anticipate the next dish it would materialize, whisked by our thoughts to the table. Most of the servers have been here a long time--ten, twenty, even thirty years--and it shows in their well-oiled execution.

The first of the entree courses was petite filet mignon, and when they say "petite" they really mean it, complete with a miniaturized cast iron skillet. The filet was prepared tableside with whimsical flourish then served with a red wine reduction topped with Boursin cheese. A fairly bland assortment of mushrooms, carrot, asparagus and Okinawan sweet potato sat to the side. Altogether it was fun without daring too much.

Moving along, the third course was a pear sorbet with cranberry reduction. I don't have a photo, but it was neither picturesque nor memorable, duly cleansing palates for the next course.

One of the signature dishes at Bali by the Sea is their orange miso-glazed Kona Kampachi with lentils, hearts of palm, Hauʻula tomatoes and a mango vinaigrette. This was clearly our favorite dish of the evening, with moist, flaky kampachi, the sweet umami of orange miso and a pleasant pea shoot crunch.

Rather than force a hard choice, dessert offered a trio of coconut lilikoi mousse, guava creme brulee and
kona ice cream over flourless chocolate cake; not terribly creative, but all delicious. As we were mopping up the last of our dessert we noticed a smoking volcano being delivered to another table. Calling over one of our waiters, "Excuse me, what is that?"

"You'll see soon."

Moments later our own volcano arrives. One of the traditions at Bali by the Sea is that each meal ends with a complimentary chocolate replica of Diamondhead, erupting dry ice smoke and cradling dark chocolate truffles. By this point we didn't need any more to eat, but the kid in me thinks a smoking volcano is cool, if a bit silly. For that matter, the adult in me appreciates a restaurant that has endured for decades doing what it does best even as everyone else chases the latest culinary trends.

Pretend it's still smoking

Bali by the Sea
http://www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com/dining/bali-by-the-sea.asp
Hilton Hawaiian Village
(808) 941-BALI
Open Monday through Saturday, 6pm - 9:30pm

Related:
→ Bali by the Sea caught my interest more than a year ago after Gail from Hawaiidiner.com raved.
→ EatHereOrNot wasn't as impressed.
→ David Choo was somewhere in the middle, neither starstruck nor appalled.

---

There's still time to enter your name in my raffle to win the new cookbook by Iron Chef Morimoto. Do it, you won't regret it!

I can hear the sarcasm already, "Yeah, yeah, the dreadlocked hippy likes a vegetarian plate lunch. Big surprise... it's a walking stereotype."

That couldn't be further from the truth. Frankly, I don't like most vegetarian food despite how I may look. I'm all for eating healthy, but not at the sacrifice of taste. Animal or vegetable, food should taste good! Too many joints prioritize the healthiness of their food above it's actual edibility and end up something that may be macrobiotic, organic and local but has all the fun of chewing on a phone book. I'm happy to say that Well Bento is better than that, balancing healthy fare with great preparations in a style they call "macrobiotic fusion."

Located on the second floor of an aging, converted apartment building near the corner of University and Beretania, Well Bento is the kind of hole-in-the-wall you could drive by for months and never notice. But notice you should. Inside the tiny room they cook up a brisk parade of tasty bentos for the lunch and dinner crowd.

The menu is divided into two major categories, each with just a few options. The vegetarian section offers a "zen macrobiotic" plate ($8) for the devoted among us, tempeh scaloppini and grilled tempeh in Cajun, BBQ or tamari varieties.

Today I ordered Grilled Tempeh, Louisiana Style ($8.55, also available as Tofu or Seitan). The tempeh was grilled then seasoned with a mild blend of cajun spices, laid across a bed of brown rice and tahini. On the side were coleslaw, miscellaneous vegetables and a few tablespoons of mac salad. The coleslaw and veggies were both delicious, full of flavor yet very light. The mac salad... meh. I'm glad it was a small portion because it lacked personality--turns out mayo is more important than you might think. Overall, the meal was the perfect size and delicious.

For those of you who prefer steak to saiten, Well Bento also offers chicken ($9), salmon ($9.30) and steak ($10.50) plate lunches in their "transitional" category. Nearly as healthy, but without denying your carnivore urges.

Well Bento is take-out only and made to order. Your best bet is to phone ahead to avoid standing around for 10-15 minutes while they prep your meal, or plan to kill time in the Indian grocery downstairs. Either way, try it. The food is tasty and you'll feel healthier just from eating it.

Well Bento
http://www.wellbento.com/
2570 S. Beretania #204
Honolulu, HI 96826
808-941-5261
Open daily 10:30am - 9pm

Other reviews of Well Bento:
→ ʻOnokinegrindz reviewed the transitional half of the menu
→ A Passion for Food visited Well Bento back before moving to NYC
→ Dave Choo, possibly the most entertaining food writer in the islands, feels good about Well Bento

When my wife's aunties flew in from Japan for their Hawaiian vacation, they brought a list of restaurants to visit. Near the top of that short list was Chibo Okonomiyaki in Waikiki's Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. You see, these aunties don't just hail from Japan, but specifically from Osaka, the birthplace of okonomiyaki and home to the world famous parent Chibo restaurant.

Okonomiyaki is sometimes referred to as a kind of "Japanese pancake." The base batter is a mix of flour, egg, cabbage and grated mountain yam. These are usually cooked table-side on a teppanyaki grill into a large pancake shape, topped with various meats or vegetables, then more batter. When the pancake is done cooking, mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce, dried seaweed and shaved bonito are spread generously across the top. It was this specific dish the aunties came to sample. If anyone could judge authenticity and whether Chibo-Honolulu can create the okonomiyaki of Chibo-Osaka, it'd be these ladies.

Chibo primarily draws Japanese tourists to its Waikiki location with a decor that blends traditional Japanese design elements with utlra-modern flourishes, creating a space that is both cozy and dynamic at the same time. The servers are bilingual and helpful, willing to explore the menu in great detail with gaijin like myself.

Restaurant seating is a mix of booths or grill-side counters. We always request the grill so that we can watch our food being prepared and talk with the cooks. In addition to their signature okonomiyaki variations, they also offer an uninspiring teppanyaki menu. Take my advice: go elsewhere for your teppanyaki; come to Chibo for the pancakes.

Although there are okonomiyaki variations to satisfy every taste and budget, my favorite is one of the cheapest: mattari-yaki ($15.50). It isn't listed on the main menu, but can be spotted on signs along the walls. Mattari-yaki starts with the standard okonomiyaki pancake, but then fills it with spinach, asparagus, pork and mochi. The last ingredient is the magic one. As it cooks, the mochi melts like mozzarella to give the dish a warm, gooey center. The pancake is placed in a serving dish then spread with the mayonnaise and mayonnaise. It gets a quick dusting of seaweed then a large pinch of shaved bonito. The bonito waves and wiggles in the heat of the dish, causing your meal to squirm and move as it is slid across the counter towards you.

My son prefers the yakisoba ($14.75), grilled noodles tossed with shredded cabbage, various meats, flavored with sosu and served with a small portion of house pickled ginger. It's delicious, but a touch expensive for a bowl of noodles. Like the okonomiyaki, bonito is added as a last second garnish both for the flavor and the visual appeal.

How does Chibo compare to the real thing back in Osaka? Well, the aunties practically licked their plates clean. Knowing them, they still prefer the original... but more out of loyalty than anything. For the rest of us that can't pop over to Osaka any time soon, Chibo here in town is as good as okonomiyaki gets.

Chibo Okonomiyaki
http://www.chibo.com/
2201 Kalakaua Ave
Honolulu, HI 96815
(808) 922-9722

Other sites:
→ A brief history of okonomiyaki
→ Make your own okonomiyaki, teppanyaki grill not required.

The Honolulu Advertiser published their annual restaurant guide last week, including
2007 ʻIlima Award winners and a mix of other restaurants deemed worthy by Advertiser editors. Overall, the representation was fairly well-balanced, with brand new and unusual ethnic restaurants seeming to have a slight edge. And yet as much as things change, they stay the same: Alan Wong's, Roy's and Chef Mavro always win something. Starbucks once again wrapped up an award for best Best Coffee Shop?!

The main value of this guide, besides smiling when favorites get a nod, is as reminder of the numerous places that still need trying. Hawaiʻi's restaurant scene is growing, and the choices are good.

2007 ʻllima Award winners as reviewed on māʻona
→ Alan Wong's Restaurant - Best Restaurant
→ Roy's Restaurant - Best Fine-Dining Restaurants (People's Choice)
→ Chef Mavro - Best Fine-Dining Restaurants (Critics' Choice)
→ Downtown@HISAM - Best Casual Restaurants (Critics' Choice)
→ Town - Best Casual Restaurants (Critics' Choice)

Hawaiiʻ's Best Restaurants as reviewed on māʻona
→ Liliha Bakery and Coffee Shop - Best Bakeries
→ Town - Best American Contemporary
→ Tudo de Bom - Best Caribbean and South American
→ Golden Palace Seafood Restaurant - Best Chinese
→ Olive Tree Cafe - Best Greek and Middle Eastern
→ Koa Pancake House - Cheap Eats, Coffee Shops and Diners
→ Like Like Drive-Inn - Cheap Eats, Coffee Shops and Diners
→ Manago Hotel Restaurant - Best Neighbor Islands, Hawaiʻi

When Kinzo and Osame Manago first served udon and sake to migrant workers in 1917, a tatami mat rolled out on the floor of their house cost a buck a night. It wasn't much, but people came to sup and sleep in the Manago home.

By 1928 Kinzo and Osame had saved enough to expand into a proper hotel—complete with dining room—to serve travelers along the narrow Kona coast highway. Much later they added a three-story building to accomodate the growing demand as more people were drawn by the Manago's affordable lodging and cooking.

Today, the Manago Hotel is still in the family, operated by a third generation of the family, Dwight and Cheryl Manago. Their unpretentious restaurant serves a mixed crowd of locals and adventurous travelers, both attracted by good food without extra frills. The dining room has high ceilings crowned with spinning fans. Cheap formica tables and stackable chairs sit on a worn hardwood floor. Upon entering, you can wash your hands at the simple porcelain basin by the doorway, just as people have been for decades.

I arrived early enough to find an easy seat along one wall. "Do you know what you want?" the waitress asked. It was pretty obvious I wasn't from around here, and her expression was kind but not hopeful for a prompt answer.

"I've heard the pork chops are good."

Big smile from the waitress in reply, "Yes, they are." My homework had paid off. I was, in a small way, connected to all of the other diners who come seeking Manago's signature pork chops.

Steamed rice, tsukemono, potato salad and stewed cabbage arrived almost as soon as my order reached the kitchen. Rice is rice, but the other sides were each phenomenal in their own ways. The tsukemono consisted of ogo mixed with bits of pickled maui onion and cherry tomatoes; crisp and refreshing. In a departure from many Hawaiian-style potato salads, the version here contains generous portions of julienned egg, giving it a hearty, satisfying flavor. The savory cabbage was stewed with chunks of pork, similar to but not quite like kalua pig and cabbage. I could have been happy enough eating an entire meal of just these sides, but then out came the pork chops.

It doesn't get any simpler than two pan-fried pork chops on a plate. They were simply seasoned, yet bursting with flavor. What's the secret? I have no idea, but when I cook pork chops they are never as succulent of flavorful as these. They are the best pork chops I've ever tasted (sorry, mom, even compared to yours).

No one seems to be in a hurry here, and the feeling is contagious. I ate at a leisurely pace, watching the dining room slowly fill and empty again as I savored every bite and drank in the history all around.

Manago Hotel
P.O. Box 145
82-6155 Mamalahoa Hwy
Captain Cook, HI 96704
(808) 323-2642
http://www.managohotel.com/

Come early—the dining room closes at 7:30pm. For added flavor, spend the night in the hotel (from $32/night, shared bath), closer in feel to a hostel than your typical Kona resort. The Four Seasons this ain't, but here the smell of homestyle cooking drifts into your room as you settle in for the night.

Other sites:
→ ʻOnokinegrindz also likes the chops
→ Hawaiirama excerpts the Manago Hotel write-up from the book 50 Thrifty Big Island Restaurants
→ The Honolulu Advertiser named Manago Hotel as one of Hawaii's Best Restaurants

Among the numerous food options along Haleiwa's main drag, Grass Shack Grill strikes a good balance between price and flavor. The made-to-order fast food described on a broken surfboard above the counter is popular with both locals and tourists. (On our most recent visit, a couple county lifeguards grabbed massive scampi plates on their way to the beach, and we met a vacationing couple from Virginia.)

Both the ahi burger (above left, $6.95) and the garden burger (above right, $4.95) are flavorful, moist and filling. You can't go wrong with either. Skip the teriyaki fries though; the cloying sauce and faux cheese made the fries soggy and inedible. In contrast, the Hernandez Garlic Fries were outstanding: a basket of fries dressed with julienned basil, heaps of garlic and a vinaigrette (center above, where they belong, $3.50).

There are only three tables inside a couple of two-seaters outside. Don't bank on finding a place to sit. Your better option is to order to go and eat on the beach. You're at the North Shore already; enjoy it.

Other sites:
→ Grass Skirt Grill - Cheap Places' "new favorite place to go to in North Shore." Need I say more?
→ There's something fishy going on at this burger joint - The Star-Bulletin's Nadine Kim obsesses on the fish burgers.

On which side of the bed did you get up this morning? If it's the right side, Chef Mavro's new wikiwiki lunch at Cassis is an attempt to find a niche with the downtown Honolulu lunch crowd. If you woke up on the wrong side, it's capitulation to backlash at the steep regular menu prices.

Either way, the new wikiwiki menu offers a smaller set menu with soup or salad and a choice of entrees at the comparatively affordable price of $17.50. (Whether or not that is truly affordable is debatable.) No doubt the staff at Cassis is looking to the menu shift as a way to rectify their lukewarm launch.

Current entree choices include Chef's take on hulihuli chicken; a tarte flambee of onion, bacon, creme fraiche, coriander, thyme and swiss cheese; a chicken tzatziki salad or a Hamakua mushroom risotto. All wikiwiki combinations are available as dine-in or take out.

Eat out at participating restaurants on Thursday, August 30th and a portion of your food bill will be donated to the Hawaii Food Bank--truly a worthy cause.

I'm always slightly skeptical of events like this. If you really want to make a difference, just give money straight to the food bank and cut out the middleman. Better yet, volunteer your time. But if you're going to be eating out on the 30th anyway, why not choose one of the locations that will pass along a portion of your meal ticket to the Hawaii Food Bank.

Flights to Hawaii are packed with visitors squeezing in one last vacation before Fall arrives. Around town, local students are already heading back to school. As summer wanes, it's time to celebrate one of her greatest joys: shave ice.

Where is the best shave ice on O'ahu? I have a short list of locations that are essential to include in any sort of comparison, but I'm also looking for those smaller, hole-in-the-wall stores that can dish out pure heaven in a cup. Suggestions?

I'll be dining nearly exclusively on shave ice for a while, and will report back soon after... assuming sugar shock doesn't kill me.

We're all adults here, right? We can talk about adult things.

Cool, thanks.

Don't laugh, but until this week… I was a virgin.

You heard me right. I'd never in my entire life done the "loco moco" if you know what I mean. Call it old fashioned, but I've been saving myself for someone special; I wanted that first time to be magical, not just a notch in the belt.

I suppose you want details...

There are some places I eat because they have great food. Some places I eat because they have a soul. Then there are the rarer ones that serve great food without having sold their soul along the way. It's great food with a clear conscience.

Meet town, located on the corner of 9th and Waialae in Kaimuki.

Straight off their menu, the vision of town is, "Local first, organic whenever possible, with Aloha always." For owner/chef Ed Kenney it's a passion that extends beyond the restaurant's four walls as he champions local ingredients in classrooms, farms, markets and conferences around Hawaii. To hear him talk food, his words tripping over themselves with excitement, is to get a glimpse inside the heart of a chef who isn't just jumping on the "eat local" bandwagon as marketing. He's a believer.

Conviction doesn't mean compromised taste either. There's a good reason town won last year's Hale Aina Gold Award for Best Bistro. The menu, loosely California cuisine with an Italian influence, changes daily to take advantage of whatever is freshest. You can get a feel for what to expect from my recent visit.

The strength of this plate was the diced ahi, served on a risotto cake with scallions, piquant capers and balsamic vinegar. It's hard to go wrong with fresh ahi.
Clams are clams; you like them or you don't. (I do.) In this case, it's the broth that truly shines. I was scrounging for bits of bread to sop up the light cinzano broth long after the clams had been devoured. Our server almost collected the empty yet soupy bowl until she saw the murderous look in my eye.
The flatbread, topped with fresh mozarella, basil leaves and locally grown tomatoes, sounded better than it tasted. The portion is good for sharing, but was bland enough not to bother; our one disappointment from the evening.
I'm a sucker for confit in general, and duck confit in particular. Slow cooking duck in salt and it's own fat concentrates the flavor while keeping the meat moist. The leg was served with a bed of braised bitter greens, pine nuts, amazingly plump golden raisins and a kohlrabi puree.
The fresh fish selection for the evening was ono, simply dressed with a meyer lemon and caper berry butter.
Town's ribeye is a generous 13oz. cut of Kulana grass-fed beef, proportioned for those who brought an appetite. It was heavy on the seasoning for my tastes, but delicious meat nonetheless.

Also sampled that same evening were:

• gnocchi in sage butter ($16) - a perfect comfort food, rich and fun to chew
• hand-cut tagliatte with fennel sausage and Hamakua mushrooms - heavy on the tomato, but we were willing to overlook that because the homemade fennel sausage held a little party in our mouths
• chocolate and apple banana "banini" - town's signature dessert doesn't do much for me, but most people really like the combo of toasted bread, bittersweet chocolate and bananas
• "milk and honey" buttermilk pannacotta - an ideal dessert, not too heavy or sweet

Town also serves a breakfast crowd, drawing regulars from the neighborhood to create that Cheers' "where everybody knows your name". The Elvis scones and Lime in the Coconut scones ($1.75) are both popular, as is the Egg, Fontina and Prosciuto Panino ($3.75, a steal!). Coffee beats Starbucks in both taste and price ($1.50), including free refills. To top it all off, town offers free wifi internet to feed your non-food addictions. Breakfast is casual drop-in, but reservations are recommended for lunch or dinner.

The vibe at town is hip, dressed with rotating artwork, mellow mood lighting from cool Mark Chai lamps and brushed steel tabletops. The space can at times be loud with sound bouncing off a poured concrete floor, but rarely so loud that it annoys. Half the fun is checking out my fellow hipper-than-me diners. I've dined alongside movie stars, Lost cast members, other chefs from around town and local artists, all of them stopping in for good food with a conscience.

Now for the disclaimer: Town is my home away from home. I know Ed, Chef Dave Caldiero and most of the staff on a first name basis after months of spending more of my dining budget here than anywhere else in Hawaii. Yes, I'm probably biased, but I wouldn't keep coming back unless it were good. Fortunately, I'm not the only one who likes town:

→ Honolulu Magazine has an interview with Ed along with a couple of recipes.
→ I can't tell which Honolulu Star-Bulletin food critic Nadine Kim prefers more, the food or her fellow diners.
→ Helen Wu of the Honolulu Advertiser, "Sitting on Wai'alae Avenue as if it had always belonged there, Town is a valuable addition to Kaimuki's eateries."

town
3435 Waialae Ave
Kaimuki, HI 96816
808-735-5900
www.townkaimuki.com / info@townkaimuki.com
6:30am - 9:00pm (last seating) Mon - Thurs
6:30am - 9:30pm (last seating) Fri - Sat

Update: in an earlier draft of this post I referred to the flatbread as bruschetta. I don't know what I was thinking, but I've now corrected that. I'm not confident on the pricing of the flatbread, so I've omitted it.

Sharing an oli on the steps of the Hawaii State Art Museum

Here in the islands, new ventures often launch with a "blessing". It's the Hawaiian equivalent of breaking champagne across a ship's bow; blessings are both a wish for good luck and an excuse to party.

Last night friends, family and local dignitaries gathered on the lawn of the Hawaii State Art Museum to bless Honolulu's newest restaurant: Downtown. If you've never been to a blessing, they usually follow a basic pattern. We were led in several oli and songs welcoming us and chronicling the ancient history of this specific place. The oli and song give context, grounding the event in this ʻaina and paying respect to those ancestors that have gone before us. A pule was offered to express gratitude and ask for blessings in the future.

After the welcoming, we heard a few words from restaurant co-owners Ed Kenney and Dave Caldiero. They expressed gratitude, and shared their dream to create a space that connects people and gives them a place to feel comfortable.

Downtown is the kind of restaurant where people can feel comfortable. The dining space on the ground floor of the museum, is set apart from the lobby by a burbling wall fountain. On the eating side of the wall, Scandinavian tables and chairs are set in a bright, airy space. Beyond them, French doors open to the museums interior pool courtyard. I want to sit and relax.

After the speeches, the blessing on the lawn was complete. Ed and Dave parted the ti leaf rope across the entrance to Downtown so the party could begin. Inside, we sampled an assortment of the dishes and basked in the celebratory glow.

Where their first restaurant, Town, serves New American cuisine with French and Italian influences, Downtown trends further south with more Mediterranean influences. The menu offers a mix of small plates, salads, sandwiches and entrees as well as several lunch items each day tailored towards office workers on the run. The big hit of the evening was their "signature" dessert, a churro dipped in bittersweet chocolate. They were hot from the oil yet light and delicate, dusted with sugar and served in the Spanish style with a small mug of pudding-thick hot chocolate.

As crazy as this sounds, the most important part of the evening wasn't the food but the people. During the blessing on the lawn, owner Ed Kenney mused, "Food brings people together." Comparing how much larger this crowd was compared to the blessing of Town three years earlier he noted, "I feel like my family has grown." Yes, Downtown wants to serve great food, but partly to create a comfortable space to come together in downtown Honolulu.

Downtown opens to the general public for breakfast and lunch starting Tuesday, May 29^th. Update: check out Nadine Kim's Star-Bulletin review.

Downtown
in the first floor of the Hawaii State Art Museum
250 South Hotel Street
Honolulu, HI 96813

Shung Chong Yuein, a small shop on the shady side of Maunakea in Honolulu's Chinatown, is famous for it's pastries and preserved fruits. They make one of the best char siu bao in town, using chopped char siu in place of the more common shredded filling.

But it's their macadamia brittle that entices me to walk blocks out of my way just to taste a square. It is rich and sweet--but not too much of either--with a generous proportion of macadamias, making it the perfect chewy treat when I only want a bite.

Sadly, both char siu bao and macadamia brittle, among many other delights, are coming to and end. After a 45 year run, Shung Chong Yuein is closing shop this coming Thursday. As, Irene, daughter of owners Chow Hop Ng and Shing Yuen Ng, put it so poetically when I stopped in, "Come back while you can, because after Thursday there will only be sweet memories."

Shung Chong Yuein Ltd.
1027 Maunakea Street
Honolulu, HI
(808) 531-1983

Related:
→ I learned about the closing from this Star Bulletin article.
→ ʻOno Kine Grindz also liked the brittle.

Speaking of new restaurants, Chef Mavro's Cassis Honolulu opens its doors on April 30 in the old Palomino space across from Aloha Tower. They've completely re-designed the interior and will be serving a more casual bistro-style cuisine than the King Street restaurant.

I don't normally cover new openings for their own sake--others handle that beat far better--but this is one I've been anticipating for months. Chef Mavro is well respected for good reason, and now he dangles the possibility of being more affordable as well.

Updated early June: I still haven't made it to Cassis, but others have been giving it mixed reviews. That won't dissuade me from making my way, eventually.
→ Cassis Honolulu: Chef Mavro's New Joint Getting So-So Reviews Thus Far
→ Nadine Kim's Star-Bulletin review
→ Cassis mostly works but still needs some refining

Related posts:
→ Chef Mavro
→ Valentines at Chef Mavro
→ The Winter 2007 menu
→ Dining Envy, Mavro and more...

I'm a little embarrassed that the staff at Kaimuki's Town know me on a first name basis. The ever-changing menu, commitment to local ingredients and free wifi suck me in several times a week. Neighborhood familiarity + global values + great food = success in my book.

There's good news for Town fans like myself: owner Ed Kenney is attempting to reprise his success in Kaimuki with Downtown (har, har) at the Hawaii State Art Museum, opening late next month for breakfast and lunch. They're in a fantastic space; I can't wait to see what they do with it.

Read the complete story in today's Honolulu Advertiser article.

It's been said that Kahuku produces three things: shrimp, corn and football players.

If it's shrimp you want, there's no better place than a shrimp truck, and arguably no better shrimp truck than Giovanni's. Shrimp vendors dot the North Shore but watch for the Giovanni's sign, truck and crowds a few miles north of the Polynesian Cultural Center. The graffiti-covered truck is parked along the side of the road, flanked by sticky plastic tables and stray cats. If you want ambiance, head to Honolulu. If you want shrimp, you're in the right place.

The menu offers three shrimpy choices: scampi, hot and spicy, or lemon and butter. Two scoops of rice and a dozen juicy shrimp will set you back $12. Add a drink for a buck.

Let's start with the lemon and butter. It is fine. Compared to all the shrimp you've had in life, it is probably exceptional. Compared to Giovanni's scampi or hot and spicy, it is forgettable. Moving right along...

The hot and spicy shrimp comes with a stern warning, "No refunds!" Are you paying attention? They say that for a reason. I like hot but this is vinegary fire; a heat that climbs up past your nose and grabs hold of your eyeballs, squeezing them until they cry mercy. Unless you're into self-immolation, what you really want is the scampi.

The scampi is transcendental. Plump, juicy shrimp are drowned in butter and garlic. In fact, you'll briefly wonder if your plate contains more garlic than shrimp, but the caramelized garlic is so good that you won't complain. There's enough garlic leftover from the cooking that they spread it across the rice, too. The meal is messy and filling, but I can't get enough. I lick each finger in turn, and then with a discrete look around, lick the paper plate too. Sorry stray cats--this is all mine.

Yes, it's really that yummy.

Tourists take note: Giovanni's is well-positioned for a circle island tour. Start your day around 9am by driving up through Wahiawa and the pineapple fields. Grab shave ice in Haleiwa. Watch turtles and/or surfers on the North Shore then continue along towards Kahuku. Give or take lunchtime you'll be at Giovanni's.

Pull over and stop. You can thank me later.

Related:
→ Make shrimp truck shrimp from the comfort of your own home!
→ Nattokun offers a minimalist review.
→ Only scampi served on the day Reid visited.

Valentines Day. Many people hate it, or at best endure it as a necessary but not quite pleasant obligation. Then there are the incorrigible romantics like me, itching for excuses to celebrate (and not just on February 14th). For us, a good celebration means good food and so Junko and I found ourselves at Chef Mavro for Valentines Day eating some of the best food on the island.

The menu has changed since our last visit but not the Mavro mojo. Favorite moments from our meal...

Most playful course: Fois Gras au Torchon, a technique where foie gras is cooked in a towel. The foie gras was then wrapped in seaweed and presented like nori sushi, if nori sushi tasted like heaven and had the smoothness of melted butter.
Best taste of the night: Braised Short Ribs on Truffle Accented Celery Root Purée. The meat was so tender it was just looking for any excuse to dissolve apart, and the purée was rich with the aroma of white truffles. Served alongside were brussel sprouts and the intended headliner of the plate, Kobe-style beef, but it was the short ribs that won our hearts and mouths.

Most memorable part of the evening: believe it or not it wasn't the food. The best part--besides my sweetheart, of course--was watching the other diners. Looking around the room we saw couples, some of whom were sitting here for the first time. Let's be honest for a sec. With the unfamiliar food and formal setting, fine dining can be intimidating. Yet I watched the same scene unfold at table after table. A new course would be presented. The couple would taste and smile, and in some cases literally laugh with delight. They may have started the meal nervously, but the enjoyment washed that all away.

No one really knows what happens in the kitchen back there but we were witnessing it's magic. The food was so delicious and fun that it helped diners to relax and enjoy their evening. I'm probably romanticizing again, but I like to think that tonight Chef Mavro helped convert a few more people from enduring Valentines Day to celebrating it.

Junko, Chef and me. Three is not a crowd.

Related posts:

→ Read about our first visit to Chef Mavro this past Fall.
→ Two years ago today we celebrated Valentines at Alan Wong's: A Dinner Drama in Four Acts.
→ The Winter 2007 menu
→ Chef Mavro opens new restaurant, Cassis Honolulu

pho dac biet

To make great soup, you must start with great broth. At Pho 97, the broth they use for their noodle soups is rich yet light, redolent of cinnamon and anise. It's flavorful without being oily; a foundation upon which each soup variety can build. It is, in a word, great.

Over time I've sampled most of the menu here. The rice dishes are good but I keep coming back to the soups. Today is pho dac biet ($5.50/medium), a bowl of rice vermicelli in a broth of beef bones simmered slow and long with aromatic spices. The vermicelli is topped with rare beef, beef balls, tripe, tendon and miscellaneous less identifiable beef bits.

Pho is traditionally served with a generous side plate of thai basil, ngo gai, bean sprouts, lemon wedges and sliced green chilis. I hand shred the basil and ngo gai, sliding them with the sprouts and chilis it into my steaming bowl then give a quick squeeze of lemon across the top. The combination of savory soup and fresh herbs is heavenly, and addictive.

Many Westerners can't stomach soup for the first meal of the day, but I'm a pho-for-breakfast kind of guy. It's a habit picked up on trips to Vietnam where street vendors welcomed the dawn by calling out for customers. Paired with a glass of ca phe phin sua da ($2.50) there are few better ways to start the day. Come a few hours later for lunch if that's your style, but be prepared for a short wait around noon. Pho 97 has a reputation for great food. Personally, I think it's all in the broth.

Pho 97 Authentic Vietnamese Cuisine
Maunakea Marketplace
1120 Maunakea St. #176
Honolulu, HI 96817
(808) 538-0708
Mon-Sat: 8am - 9pm
Sun: 8am - 8pm

Photo copyright Chef Mavro

Of course just a few days after I go on and on about the wonders of dining at Chef Mavro, the menu has been rebirthed. A few items have carried over like the fabulous lamb loin and intriguing Chocolates Aux Espices, while others have been reworked into something completely new. The foie gras is now wrapped in nori and served with yuzu kanten, ruby grapefruit-Korean pear-shizo pickles and brioche crust. There's a spiced bigeye ahi (pictured above) that I can't wait to try.

Ah, so much temptation to spend more money...

Expectations are tricky. Anticipation of a good meal adds to the enjoyment--unless it backfires. A fine dinner can be ruined high hopes. Word on the street has it that Chef Mavro is one of the best chefs in the country, that his food is not to be missed, that he is inventive yet grounded. And so it was with trepidation that we approached our first meal at Chef Mavro, expecting the world. How could it possibly live up to everything we'd heard?

The evening started off well when we were met at our car with an umbrella to protect against a light drizzle. Once inside, the restaurant was warm and inviting. Gail from Hawaiidiner.com had notified the staff at Chef Mavro that Junko and I would be dining with them, and so we were greeted, "Welcome, we've been expecting you."

Some people have all the luck. Gail over at HawaiiDiner.com spent the summer tasting her way through the fine dining highlights in Honolulu, all on someone else's dime. I have to confess to a generous portion of envy--what an opportunity!

Of the restaurants reviewed, I've only been to Alan Wong's. It's the kind of place I can direct friends with the confidence that they'll not be disappointed. (Believe it or not, the great food was not the most memorable part of my last visit.)

Of the other mentions, Chef Mavro has been at the tippy top of places I desperately want to visit, but so far I haven't had a Special Occasion concide with Feeling Rich Enough. If money grew on trees, I'd be there tomorrow. And probably Thursday, too. For now though, I've got a jar full of pennies that gets a little heavier every day. (Can you imagine if I paid my bill in pennies? Any jury would rule justifiable homicide.)

There were a few surprises in Gail's list. La Mer garnered my favorite quote, "Recommended for those who equate spending a lot of money with dining well." Yeowch! I guess that visit didn't go as planned. Also notable was the recommendation for Bali by the Sea. I've heard next to nothing about the restaurant, but the review piqued my interest in its double-whammy description of good views and good seafood.

I'll let you read the rest of her findings yourself--but be warned--you might be tempted to dip into savings to finance a few dinners out. I am.

Update 12/27: I've now visited Chef Mavro, and it was worth the wait.

Monday is the voting deadline for the 2006 `Ilima Awards. It's easy enough to grumble about past choices once the decisions are final, but right now you have the opportunity to help determine the new round of winners.

As a bonus, there's the chance to win a $200 gift certificate at an 'Ilima Award-winning restaurant every month for a year. Yeah... I don't really think either of us will win that either, but consider voting anyway.

And no, I'm not going to tell you how I voted. At least not until after the awards come out, at which point I might need to grumble.

(Voting is now closed.)

Official `Ilima Awards Online Ballot.

Meat.

There's plenty to like at Tudo de Bom: it's warm Brazilian decor, the novelty of serving food from a sword, or even the half-naked Carnival reruns on the television screens. But if we carve away non-essentials like so much extra fat, we're left with a simple trinity of beef, pork and chicken. Churrascarias appeal to the inner carnivore in so many of us, and that carnivore is hypnotized by the all-you-can-eat parade of animal flesh. One night when Junko was occupied with other matters, I gathered together a few guys and we paid a visit to Tudo de Bom to see just how much meat we could stomach.

The main draw is known as churrasco rodizio, a kind of rotisserie barbecue where various meats are cooked on a rotating metal skewer then brought out on the skewer and carved table-side. According to our server, rodizio steak houses are common in Brazil, serving many of the selections available at Tudo de Bom while sometimes adding more unusual fare like chicken hearts and grilled pineapple.

The meal includes modest salad bar and hot buffet lines, but they were both fairly forgettable re-hashes of American and Brazilian standards. The meats, however, were fabulous. For $19.95, we were offered grilled chicken, pepper steak, garlic steak, pork loin, pork sausage, chicken sausage, tri-tip and sirloin. On the weekends, the price raises to $24.95, but also includes brisket, skirt steak, mahi mahi, bacon-wrapped turkey and rib-eye. The temptation is to overindulge early on, but if you pace yourself you can always ask for returns of your favorites. The chicken is a highlight, with crisp skin yet juicy flesh. Both sausages were delicious, although grilled a hair too long. The pepper steak is packed with flavor, spiced but not spicy. There weren't any flops, so be certain to sample everything.

To help wash the meal down, we ordered a round of caipirinhas ($6.00), a quintesscentially Brazilian cocktail made from cachaca sugar cane liquor mixed with muddled limes. To my uneducated palate the caipirinha tastes rather similar to a mojito. Also like a mojito, it's refreshing taste masks a potent punch. Go easy.

Once the meat and caipirinha began to induce the onset of satiated stupor, we took more time to absorb our surroundings. Even on a weekday, Tudo de Bom was doing a brisk business with most of their tables occupied. The interior is festive and warm, like a party just getting underway. A surprising percentage of the patrons were conversing with the staff in Portuguese. Everywhere we turned, people were laughing, talking and enjoying the delicious meats. The name Tudo de Bom roughly translates to, "It's all good." I'd have to agree.

Other sites:
→ The Honolulu Advertiser includes Tudo de Bom among the best Honolulu restaurants of 2005-2006.
→ Local blogger Reid was underwhelmed by the service.
→ Tudo de Bom’s manly, meaty meals are "da bomb", an older Star-Bulletin review.
→ A detailed guide to making your own caipirinha.

Tudo De Bom
960 Kapiolani Blvd at McCully, 2nd floor
Honolulu, HI
808-942-0267

Walking into Koa Pancake House, I had the sense that we were going to like this place. The counter had lines four people deep, placing their orders, and every table was occupied with a mix of old couples, young families with kids and surfers grabbing a bite on their way back from shore. That particular combination of patrons usually leads to the same conclusion: hearty portions of good food at afforable prices.

My son and I split an order of mahimahi and eggs ($5.25) and almost couldn't finish. The mahimahi had been sauteed, but wasn't oily. A quick squeeze of lemon brought out the freshness of the fish. In addition to eggs, breakfast included a side of three fluffy pancakes, cooked to a perfect golden brown. The guava juice ($1.40) was standard, but the coffee ($1.70) was just good enough to be drinkable. I had been seeking a light but filling breakfast--no loco moco today--and this fit the bill perfectly.

As we were sharing our breakfast, I was struck by how comfortable everything was. Even on a busy Saturday morning, it wasn't chaotic. The warm koa walls and high ceiling suck up sound, creating and easy space to talk and grind. We liked it.

Other write-ups on Koa Pancake House:
→ Koa Pancake House James stopped in for loco moco during a recent trip to Oahu.
→ Hawaii's Best Restaurants: Breakfast The Honolulu Advertiser notes Koa Pancake House as one of the best breakfast spots on Oahu.

99-115 Aiea Heights Dr #256
Aiea, HI 96701
808-463-8805
Open 6:30am - 2:00pm daily

The Liliha area is a rare holdout against Honolulu's pervasive tourism and development. There are no tiki torches, no executive condominiums, no furikake seared ahi, just a neighorhood that has preserved some of its character from a previous generation. Liliha Bakery sits as an anchor right in the middle, serving up baked goods, diner food and their infamous coco puffs.

As you enter the glass doors, you are faced with a choice. To the left are the bakery cases, loaded with an impressive assortment of pastries and cakes. To the right is a long countertop with barstools facing a short order grill. I personally like coming to Liliha Bakery for breakfast at the counter, sidled up among the regulars, then grabbing something from the bakery cases "for the road." Just this morning, I ordered sweet bread french toast ($3.75), a side of bacon ($3.15) and a cup of coffee ($1.10) before picking up a coco puff ($1.15). It's not the best deal around, but the food is reliable and the service is friendly.

But I imagine you really want to hear more about the coco puffs ($1.15/ea or $11.40/dozen). Take a pastry shell, pump it full of chocolate pudding and top with a generous dollop of chantilly. Simple, but decadent and loved by many.

Here's where I ruffle your feathers: the coco puffs are almost too rich for my tastes.

Are you still with me? Please allow me to explain. The puffs are each about the size of a small guava, but with a supersaturation of chocolate-y goodness out of proportion to their size. The first bite is wonderful. The second is good. By the third, I'm wondering if I'm going to be able to finish it. The last bite is taken hastily before I have time to reconsider. I loved it, but it nearly defeated me. That's not to say that you won't be an instant coco puff addict-- most people are. If not, try the lighter haupia malassada, my personal favorite.

Either way, I have a growing conviction that everyone should pay a visit to the Liliha Bakery at some point, if for no other reason than to catch a glimpse of an older era in Hawaii. It's as if a thread strings back through history, connecting to people who were doing the same thing 55 years ago. Of course, it doesn't hurt to pick up a few pastries while you're there...

Other articles about Liliha Bakery you might like:
→ Hawaii's Big-time Bakeries - More information on the history of the bakery and the coco puffs in particular.
→ Liliha Bakery `Onokinegrindz visits Liliha Bakery for coco puffs.
→ Liliha Bakery Writeup at HawaiiStories about the appeal of Liliha.

Liliha Bakery
515 North Kuakini Street
Honolulu, HI 96817
(808) 531-1651
Open Tuesday 6am through Sunday 8pm (24 hours)
Closed Mondays

Long before Hanoi was the capital, before there were north and south halves to the country, even before the French occupation, Hue was the imperial city--the political and cultural center--of Vietnam. It is an ancient city, famous for its monuments and pagodas, its pivotal strategic value during the Vietnam War and for its beef noodle soup, Bún Bò Huế. You probably thought you were here for the food, but bonus-- a side dish of history too!

It was the lure of Bún Bò Huế that brought me through the doors of Cửu Long II, a decent sized phở shop on the corner of Hotel and River Streets in Chinatown. The traditional preparation of this soup is a rich, red broth seasoned with lemongrass and spicy chili paste then loaded with wide rice noodles and shredded meat. Fresh mint and shavings from banana stems are served as garnish. They say you can't understand the ancient capital until you've tasted a bowl of Bún Bò Huế.

In contrast, the Bún Bò Huế at Cửu Long II was a pale imitation of what it should have been. From the first sip, I knew this was not the real deal. The distinguishing characteristic of the soup is its tangy broth, yet this one was was weak, as if it had been stretched with too much water. The noodles were fine, but the meat was lacking. There were too little sliced beef and too many knobby pork pieces. The server assures me it was pig tail--at least I think that's what she was trying to say. All I know is that it consisted of primarily bone and skin-- hardly satisfying. The "bò" in Bún Bò Huế refers to beef, and I didn't get enough of it.

The plate of fresh veggies alongside was the saving grace. Dressing the soup liberally with the banana strips, mint, bean sprouts and lime brightened up the flavors and gave it a refreshing crunch.

Alongside the soup, I drank a glass of cà phê sửa đá, super concentrated, almost syrupy French roast coffee heavily sweetened with condensed milk. It drips syrupy goodness through a Vietnamese filter and then is poured over ice. Yum. They know how to make their coffee.

Overall, the service was warm and friendly, but the main draw this morning, the soup, fell short. The sister restaurant in Pearl Kai has received strong reviews for its phở, which makes me think I just ordered the wrong thing. I'll order differently on the next visit because there's no mincing words: Cửu Long II doesn't know Huế.

Cửu Long II
175 N. Hotel St. #2
Honolulu, HI
(808) 585-6199
Daily 8am - 8pm

As of the time of this post, we've only lived on the island of O`ahu for one year and four months. That hardly qualifies me as an expert on local dining.

Having said that, I've made an effort to get out and try as much as possible since we've been here. I may not be an expert, but I know what I like when I see it. Yesterday I gave my opinions on several `Ilima Award winners, some good some bad. If I could give awards of my own, this is what they would be.

Best Plate Lunch: Kenneke's
They make a mean chicken long rice, and the staff are amazingly warm and friendly. Other highlights include their haupia and a generous pork laulau.

Best Pau Hana: Indigo
Although their happy hour runs every day from 5-7pm, the biggest crowds turn out on Fridays for the half priced martinis among funky opium den decor. Their award-winning sake martini with cucumber stands out among a list of mostly sweet and fluffy drinks.

Best Shave Ice: Waiola Store, McCully
Ahead by a nose in my own little shave ice competition. That's saying something on this island, where every block can have its own shave ice sensei.

Best Vegan You Can Eat Alongside a Gas Station Pump:
The Vegan Gourmet Okay, so it's not really a gas station any more. Three businesses lease an old gas station on Manoa Rd and share the space: A Beautiful Day Cafe, Boston Waffles and The Vegan Gourmet. The latter serves macrobiotic lunches Monday through Wednesday. Go early, because she always sells out.

Best Chain Restaurant for Watching Friday Night Fireworks Over the Ala Wai Marina: California Pizza Kitchen, Ala Moana
Every Friday night at 7:45pm, the Hilton Hawaiian Village shoots off a short fireworks display near the marina on the Ewa end of Waikiki. If you can score a window seat at CPK, you'll have a perfect view looking across treetops and yachts to the colorful explosions as you munch your pizza.

Best Place to Celebrate a Birthday: Roy's, Hawaii Kai
Maybe it's just my birthday, but it contains all the right elements: great food, solid service and dining that transcends what I can afford on a daily basis. After a visit to Roy's, I feel like I've dined somewhere special.

Best at Learning Your Name: Andy's Sandwiches and Smoothies
Despite daily lines out the door of people drawn in by their roasted turkey sandwich, Andy's is still the kind of neighborhood place where they ask your name, and remember it the next visit. The food is great too.

I stand by these choices until death, or until the breeze shifts, whichever comes first.

Reader's choice awards are fairly predictable, and the 2005 `Ilima Awards are no exception. Voluntary ballots submitted by readers of the Honolulu Advertiser for their favorite restaurants name not always the best, but often the most popular establishments i