Hank's Haute Dogs

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I found a seat in the crowded cafe and pulled out my notebook to write about a recent visit to Hank's. The woman at the next table couldn't contain herself, "You're a writer? What are you writing about?"

"Haute dogs. I write about food."

"Hot dogs?" She wrinkled her nose. "Do you have to?" And then the floodgates unleashed. "You know who makes the best hot dogs? Costco! Those Polish dogs are soooo good! You should write about those."

That was just the start. The barrage of unsolicited advice continued, about Yankee Stadium hot dogs (they have the best condiments), Redondo's hot dogs (that red is scary), raw onion on dogs (most common cause of food poisoning!), old hot dog jingles (sung, of course) and even pigs in a blanket (kids love 'em!).

Finally she caught her breath, "Is this helpful?"

Helpful? Try overwhelming, and yet it was a timely reminder of how seriously we take our hot dogs. When you grill up a wiener at home, you're not just prepping a meal but tapping into a shared affection for hot dogs dating back to the 15h century when Viennese frankfurters were first served for the coronation of Maximillian II, the Holy Roman Emperor. They were quite literally food fit for a king.

Since then, hot dogs have embraced a more populist role in American society, providing happy eats at ballgames, birthdays and barbeques. According to the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, Americans consume 7 billion hot dogs between Memorial Day and Labor Day alone -- an average of 818 per second -- and that's not counting other types of sausages. In the words of Hank Adaniya, hot dogs are, "feel good food. There are certain anchors, the salt, the spice. You smell that hot dog and BOOM it takes you back to memories of past dogs. They're comfort food."

Hank's - Kakaako
Hank's Haute Dogs, Coral St.


Hank knows what he's talking about. As owner of Hank's Haute Dogs, he's been serving up hot dogs with a gourmet twist since 2007, and was recently named one of the Top 10 New Places for Hot Dogs in the nation by Bon Appetit magazine, the only Hawaii eatery to make the list.

Step in to their small storefront in Kakaʻako and you can sample not only a classic Chicago ($4.75) or Polish dog ($5.25), but also more unusual fare made from alligator ($8.30), foie gras ($9.50) or lobster ($10.50). There's even a Fatboy ($5.95), wrapped in bacon and deep-fried.

alligator dog
Chicago hot dog
Let's start with the Chicago dog ($4.75). Hank flies in those hot dogs and a bright green relish from Chicago for an authentic Windy City experience. The dog is served in a soft poppyseed bun then buried under diced onion, yellow mustard, the dayglo relish, tomato, a dill pickle spear, celery salt and sport hot peppers. Keep a napkin handy. The most recent time I ordered this dog, the sport peppers were unusually large and overpowering, but I just pulled one off to eat on the side. This is a hot dog that satisfies the craving for a classic dog.


Chicago dog
Lobster dogFor those seeking a more creative meal, there's the lobster dog, a housemade combination of lobster, shrimp and scallops garnished with garlic aioli, relish and pickled takuan radish. The casing has a nice snap as you bite into it, like any good hot dog should, but the similarities to a typical ballpark frank stop there. The inside is smooth, almost creamy, with a buttery lobster flavor. It's not quite the same as dining on lobster tail on fine china, but you don't have to don a sports coat to eat this one. The takuan and relish provide balance to the rich seafood of the dog.. It's the most expensive item on their menu -- more than twice the price of a Chicago -- but worth a try just because it's so different.


lobster dog
Alligator dog
The alligator andouille dog was mildly disappointing, but only because I was expecting a more defined alligator taste. By the time it's spiced up New Orleans style then served with tomato-onion relish and horseradish cream it could just as easily be pork and no one would know the difference.

The trick with gourmet hot dogs, according to Hank, is pushing the boundaries, but "not too far." Mess with the basics too much and people get grumpy. If lobster and alligator dogs sound too adventurous at first, you can't go wrong with a chili dog ($5.95, not pictured), topped with mild housemade chili, diced onion and cheese. Where other chili dogs can be excessive, drowning everything in greasy chili and a mountain of cheese, Hank's version is an exercise in restraint. Just the right amount of chili, cheese and onion in proportion. It's no surprise Chef Mavro calls them a favorite.

Of course no hot dog is complete without a side of fries. Hank's fries are twice cooked, nice and crispy. For an extra 50 to 75 cents, pickup a dipping sauce: wasabi tobiko creme, garlic aioli (my fave), curry ketchup or chipotle mayo.

Hank's - Waikiki
Hank's, WaikikiBuilding on the success of the Kakaʻako location, Hank opened a second location in the International Marketplace, introducing Waikiki tourists to his dogs without making them trek half-way across town. Honestly though, the second location simply doesn't compare. It lacks a proper kitchen, so most everything is trucked over from the main store and reheated as needed. For that you pay slightly higher prices, and for a limited menu. There's no fatboy, no lobster dog, no rotating daily specials. On my most recent visit, the fryer was acting up so I couldn't get my fries. The Waikiki location is okay if you're in the area and craving a good dog, but other than that the original location better captures the soul of the hot dog.


And really, that's what it's about: the heart and soul of the hot dog. I asked Hank why he sells hot dogs, knowing full well that everyone will compare him to the buck fifty Polish dogs at Costco. His answer sums it up perfectly, "They're comfort food. They bring you back to your childhood. I try to stay authentic to that, while bringing a new perspective." You pay a bit more than Costco, but how do you put a price on soul?

Hank's Haute Dogs
http://www.hankshautedogs.com/
(808) 532-4265
Cash only.

Kakaʻako
324 Coral Street
Honolulu, Hawai‘i 96813
Mon. - Fri. 10am - 4pm
Sat. - Sun. 11am ~ 5pm
Waikiki
International Marketplace
2330 Kalakaua Ave.
Honolulu, HI 96815
Sun. - Sat. 11am - 9pm


Other sites:
Lunch Time Grindz made a quick lunch stop
A Passion for Food - was a little underwhelmed by what she got for the price
→ An older Star-Bulletin write-up talks about the original opening of the Kakaʻako location.

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5 Comments

kat said:

deb and I just checked them out too, it was delicious!!

RONW said:

How about a hot dog eating contest, there.

alan said:

Kat, glad you both liked it!

RONW, that might be too much of a good thing? I want to enjoy each bite, not rush through them as fast as I can.

SageMom said:

Those look really good and I don't even eat hot dogs!

alan said:

SageMom, if you normally pass on hotdogs because of the mysterious and often disgusting things that end up ground inside them, then Hank's is for you. The quality of their dogs is exceptional.

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This page contains a single entry by alan published on July 18, 2009 9:03 AM.

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