Ugelisch's
The best oysters I've ever had were from Ugelisch's. A man in a white apron shucked them right before us, then we plucked the meat and popped each in our mouth. They were slippery smooth with the fresh taste of the sea.
I tried the oysters with lemon and with Louisiana hot sauce, but in the end preferred to take them straight, chewing slightly before swallowing. (You're not really supposed to chew oysters, but just swallowing them went too fast. These oysters deserved to be savored, and yes, chewed.) Perhaps they were the best ever oysters because they were also the first, the first time I tasted oysters as they are supposed to be.
Even though several years ago, that visit is seared in my memory. My brother-in-law and I ate plates of oysters and shrimp with beer while standing at the bar, because the place was packed shoulder to shoulder with a line out the door. It was a classic case where you shouldn't judge a book by its cover: a dingy, rundown building in a rough neighborhood, but with a reputation for the best seafood for the dollar. Ugelisch's drew crowds from all walks of life into the impoverished area, rich downtown lawyers jostling for space next to dock workers, but then closed at 4pm to get everyone out before dark. My brother-in-law was trying to show off the best food his hometown, New Orleans, and I was very impressed.
Rumor is that Anthony Ugelisch (pronouncedyou-guh-litch) planned to retire this summer and close down for good. I never heard one way or another. If he didn't retire by choice, then I suspect his location among the worst flooding made that decision for him. (Note: it has been pointed out in the comments that the flooding probably wasn't as bad as I had been led to believe. Thanks Matt!) Is it trite to talk about oysters in the midst of all the suffering in New Orleans right now? Bombarded with news of the overwhelming tragedy, all I know how to do is affirm the little things that make New Orleans shine, and pray.
My brother-in-law and his family evacuated to Texas in the days before Hurricane Katrina did her worst. Their own house is fine and relatively dry, but they have no reason to head back soon. What would they do anyway? Their jobs are on indefinite hiatus and school for the kids isn't expected to resume until 2006. We tried to convince them to join us in Hawai`i, but it isn't likely. Too bad, too. We would have enjoyed their company, and my brother-in-law could make a mean gumbo with the seafood available here. His gumbo is a story for another day...
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Mmmm oysters. It's always fun when you're pleasantly surprised with the quality of food of a seemingly dive-ish spot.
My boyfriend is Korean and always insists he finds the most authentic Korean food in the dungiest places. We've gone to the Korean section of NYC a few times, and this definitely rings true..fancy does NOT mean better.
It's September and football Sundays have started again and I'm at work :(
Hi Alan - Going to New Orleans for vacation has always been on my list. I think it may be a while before I visit - though I'm more determined than ever to get there. I'm glad you BIL and Family are fine, I can't even imagine how something like Katrina can turn your entire world on it's ear.
A note on Ugelisch's
They were not in the "worst are of the flooding." They recieved less than a foot of flooding. The place should be salvageable. I have heard Anthony Ugelisch talk about retireing for a long time...so far it hasn't happened. There are other landmark restaurants that didn't fare as well. Christian's off lower Canal was in 9-10 feet of water. Christain's is a favorite for locals and housed in an old church. It is one of the top french restaurants in the nation. This landmark may be lost forever! God bless Christian Ansul and Roland Huet....and everyone in NO!!!
Mona- I wonder why that's true, that dives often surprise with some of the tastiest food. I've eaten in plenty of exceptions to that rule as well, but some of my favorite places are the most modest in appearance.
Kirk- I think we'll all be surprised and encouraged by how quickly the Gulf States rebound and recover. They'll never be the same again, but they'll be back. Hopefully you'll make it there someday.
Matt- I'm glad to learn that the flooding wasn't as bad as I thought. I was operating off 4th hand info, and you know that can be. The fish that got away gets bigger with each retelling. I've updated my post to reflect your info. Unfortunately, I never made it to Christian's. God bless NO... she
certainly needs it.
Alan,
I finally got around to the panna cotta and it was delicious, really yummy. I wanted to let you know so you could take a look, I am assembling your package this week and will send of by Friday. Take care. I think we should start and care package trend, you send me something, I cook with it and send you something back, sort of thing.
my cousin eric, the one we "lost" for a while during the hurricane, worked at Ugelsich's for years. i too heard the rumors of retiring. i hope to talk to him soon... i'll let you know.
Gia, as mentioned in email, I agree.
Elizabeth, I had no idea you had family in NO, nor that Eric worked at Ugelisch's. What a small world! I'm glad Eric has been found.