Roy's Restaurant in Hawaii Kai
In order to truly appreciate a meal at Roy's, you need to understand a little of what Executive Chef Roy Yamaguchi has accomplished. Back in the mid-eighties, even the nicer restaurants in Hawaii were serving classic but uninspired cuisine using ingredients flown in from afar. Roy Yamaguchi was one of a small handful of young chefs to shake up the status quo. They created a new class of cuisine, called "Euro-Asian," "Hawaiian Regional Cuisine" or "Hawaiian Fusion," that combined Asian dishes, French techniques and fresh, local ingredients.
Except that at that time there weren't really any local food growers to provide them with reliable food sources. These chefs met with farmers, made agreements to buy their crops if they grew them, and essentially kick-started the current local food industry. It was the right people all coming together at the right time and saying they could do better. Today when I pick up Nalo greens at the KCC Farmer's Market, I know that Roy Yamaguchi played some part in that.
Roy's own journey to success started at the Culinary Institute of America, after which he apprenticed in California and owned his first restaurant in LA, 385 North. Roy's Restaurant in Hawaii Kai opened in 1988, with many other locations to follow. Today, Roy has more than 30(!) restaurants, including 22 in the Continental US, six in Hawaii, three in Japan and one in Guam.
All of this leads up to my recent visit. When asked where I wanted to spend my birthday this year, I replied without hesitation, "Roy's."
The atmosphere in the Hawaii Kai location is elegant without being stuffy. An open show kitchen adds energy to the main dining area as a gaggle of cooks prepares the evening's meal. Large, tinted windows overlook the calm Hawaii Kai waters, and are perfect for catching the sunset over Diamondhead.
For our evening meal, all five of us at my table chose the prix fixe menu ($52.50/person). Two of us also selected the wine pairings (an additional $20/person). Service was friendly and responsive, striking that delicate balance between professionalism and warmth. Without further ado, our meal...
Hawaii Kai Style Crispy Crab Cake with Spicy Sesame Beurre Blanc
served with Roy's Santa Barbara Chardonnay
We started with crab cakes, coated in a light and crispy panko crust. Inside, the rich, shredded crab was lightly spiced. The chardonnay, buttery with apples and citrus flavors, paired nicely. Our palate was awakened and left ready for the next course.
Misoyaki Style Butterfish and Lotus Root Salad with Kaiware Sprouts and Soy Rice Wine Vinaigrette
served with Roy's Euro-Asian Riesling
The vinaigrette was very light, allowing the flavorable greens to step to the front. My mother thought her greens were beginning to wilt, but mine were just fine. On top of the greens were several wafer-thing slices of tasty lotus root, deep fried like a potato chip.
Paired with this salad was the best butterfish I've ever had. It was moist and flaky, falling apart under my fork. The outside was caramelized and seared misoyaki style (sake, mirin, sugar and miso) that exploded with deliciousness. This dish was my favorite of the evening. The reisling served with the salad was too sweet on its own, but alongside the salad it mellowed pleasantly.
Singapore Peppercorn Seared Sea Scallops with Nalo Micro Greens
& Natural Truffle Essence served with Roy's Pinot Noir
The quality of the scallops themselves was great, but they were overpowered by the peppercorn. I also found myself wanting a larger proportion of the Nalo greens. Typically pinot noir is a versatile wine, but this one didn't match well. Against the peppercorn, the wine was too spicy and tannic. Good ideas, but not executed to our tastes. My sister's comment sums this course up best. She passed her second scallop to me, "I don't want to fill up too fast."
Combination Plate of Kiawe Wood Fired New York Steak
and Hibachi Grilled Salmon served with Roy's Cabernet Sauvignon
I had mixed feelings on the main course. On the one hand, both the steak and salmon were cooked to perfection. The gorgonzola on top of the steak was a delicious addition. The cabernet paired nicely, with oak and blackberry flavors.
On the other hand, there wasn't anything particular special about the entree. Where the other dishes made clear attempts to be inventive, this one was straight down the middle. I even felt like the broccoli and carrots were added not by design, but because people would expect them.
Crispy Coconut Haupia Turnover drizzled with a
Trio of Tropical Coulis
As best I could tell, the three coulis were passionfruit, guava and taro root. Sitting on top was a light and flaky coconut turnover, sweet but not too sweet. It was a nice finish to the meal, except that...
Chocolate Decadence
Our server brought a bonus dessert in honor of my birthday, chocolate decadence. It was thumb-sized, but dense enough to create its own gravity well. We passed it around the table, and everyone agreed it was one of the best chocolate decadence examples we'd ever tasted.
Despite my minor quibbles with the details of the meal, we were overall quite pleased with our entire dinner at Roy's. We were treated well, we enjoyed the food and we felt as if had celebrated throughout it all. If Roy's food seems less daring and distinct these days, it is because he has so many imitators. If you're seeking Euro-Asian food from one of the pioneers of the cuisine, and its best practicioners, give Roy's a try.
Roy's Restaurant
6600 Kalanianaole Hwy.
Honolulu, HI 96825
(808) 396-7697
Hi Alan,
I like Roy's too, and especially the misoyaki butterfish. The only thing I don't like about Roy's is the fact that it can be noisy in the dining room, especially since the kitchen is open. Other than that I wish I could afford to go more often.
We were seated against a wall right next to the edge of the kitchen. I think that shielded us from the sound of most of the dining room, and gave me a great view right down the cooking line. If I could justify it, I'd come here a couple times a year.
Hi Alan,
BTW...I submitted the comment before I included a Happy Birthday to you!
Thanks! "Another [year] older, and deeper in debt..."
Happy Birthday Alan!
Roy's looks amazing... just wish I could afford it.
Maybe in like five years or so... haha.
Hope you had a good one.
Happy B-Day Alan!!!!
Is Roy's the place that makes the oyster shooters, I've only heard of it but never tasted it. Anyways there is one in Seattle and Guam. I love ono and wahoo when I can get it also anything coconut. Glad you are back and hope you and the family had a nice vacation.
happy belated birthday! i really like the roy's in hawaii kai, the one on guam, not so much. it's good, but as you've said, not so daring and distinct (even less so from this outpost).
Can you participate in the childhood food memories meme? I want to hear more about island food!!
Jane, it's the kind of place you save up for, that's for sure.
Kirk, thanks!
Gia, no oyster shooters that I'm aware of. Lots of fresh fish though, so ono/wahoo, moi, opakapaka, etc all make appearances on the And yes! I'll do the childhood food memories meme. I'm pretty haole though, so my answers might not be all that you'd hoped.
Santos, welcome back! I haven't "seen" you around in a while.
aloha, just found your blog off ismyblogburning...i'm trying to set up a list of blogs from all 50 states..and will link to yours if you don't mind. my family has spent a lot of time in hawaii, mostly maui, and i miss it a lot! is roy's the chain? same owners as one in pebble beach, ca?
Mona, yes Roy's is now a chain, although it isn't a franchise. All the Roy's restaurants are owned by Roy's Enterprises and supervised, to varying degrees, by Roy Yamaguchi himself.
I think it's great if you link Ma`ona as part of your list of blogs from all 50 states. Thanks for stopping by!
I also like Roy's. Never been to Roy's at Hawaii Kai though, only in Waikiki. Next time i go to Hawaii Kai for sure will stop by. Thanks for the post.
I've walked by the Waikiki a number of times but haven't yet been inside. The Hawaii Kai has of course been around a lot longer--don't know if that's a good or bad thing though.