Moloka`i Hot Bread from Kanemitsu Bakery
I can't help but feel like I'm doing something illegal, that at any moment cops are coming around the corner, sirens blaring. It's 11pm on a Tuesday night, long after Kaunakakai, Moloka`i has shut down for the evening, and we're making our way through the deserted main drag through town. Sandwiched between Imamura's and Mango Mart a dark alley leads mysteriously away from the safety of the road. We follow our noses, smelling unmistakable fresh baked bread.
Every few minutes, the door opens and a guy sticks his head out just barely long enough to take money or hand out a bulging, green plastic sack. It takes little imagination to believe he's dealing ice from the doorway, but it's actually the next best thing: Moloka`i Hot bread. Just as addictive but completely legal. A crude poster board side taped to the side outlines your options, all variations on the same theme. They take a hot loaf of sweet bread straight from the oven, slice it open and slather it generously with the toppings of your choice. When the bag is handed out the door, the bread is still too hot to handle comfortably.
Moloka`i Hot Bread is a longstanding tradition in Kaunakakai. Years ago, the infamous Pau Hana Inn was situated just a few blocks away. After last call, drunks would stumble outside from their revelry and smell Kanemitsu's baking for the next morning. With etiquette and good sense blurred by a few too many drinks, they'd stumble through the back alleys until they came to the unmarked back door and hammer on it until the bakers relented and sold them fresh, hot bread. Sensing opportunity, the bakery now does a brisk business selling hot bread from 10:30pm - about 3am, for prices ranging from $3 (plain, but why bother?) to $4.75 (the Works!). At night its purely hot bread. If you want a broader selection, you'll have to wait until the full retail bakery opens at 5:30am.
We were supposed to bring several loaves back with us, but the temptation was too great. An entire loaf was torn by hand and devoured before we even made it out of the first alley. The bread is soft, and the toppings sweet. Think of it as a dessert rather than sandwich bread. You shouldn't really eat like this so late at night, but I dare you to resist. All it takes is one try, and they've got you hooked. You'll be back, and the pusher will be waiting behind the alleyway door...
Kanemitsu Bakery
79 Ala Malama St (the front entrance, anyway)
Kaunakakai, Moloka`i
808-553-5855
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Hi Alan,
Lucky you! *sigh* I wouldn't even make it 5 feet from the door. The bread is so good when it's hot, I can probably eat the whole loaf in under 10 minutes. =P
Hi Alan - i've long heard about the Molokai Midnite Bread Run - i'm glad you covered it.
ohmigosh i LOVE fresh bread. in fact, when i was little, i found the concept that "man cannot live by bread alone" to be terribly confusing. because i would have been quite happy to eat NOTHING BUT bread three meals a day. : ) love this entry, and the pics, and the idea of buying hot bread at 2 am.
Hi Alan. I discovered you through Ono Kine Grindz. I really enjoyed this post, because it was exactly how I felt when I first went to get bread! Under the dim street lights and going through the dark alley, you really do feel like you're going to a drug dealer or something. But the smell of fresh, hot bread erases any doubt that you're not supposed to be there. After I ordered, the guy actually left the door open, which surprised all of us since that's never happened before. But he did close it after taking another order. My favorite ones are the cinnamon/sugar and strawberry. I look forward to reading more!
Elizabeth - Stop, you'll make me blush.
Jane - Thanks for stopping by! If I had to choose, like if someone put a gun to my head and said "you must choose just one flavor", I'd agree on the strawberry. With cream cheese, of course.
Alan, nice post! I like your descriptive writing... it makes me feel as if I was there. The pictures really add to it too. I really wanna visit Moloka`i now. Thanks!
James- More so than any island--I haven't been to Lana`i or Ni`ihau--Moloka`i is old school Hawai`i. There aren't many tourists, and people are more connected to their `aina. I loved that aspect.
omg, illicit carbs! i would totally do something like this, only i wouldn't actually open up in the day. i'd be completely penniless, of course, but it would suit the night owl in me.
Santos, I stopped by during the day, and Kanemitsu is half greasy spoon, half family bakery. It has the cool, small-town vibe going for it, but nothing that can hold a candle to a midnight run under cover of night.
yeah, the hot bread tastes good, but if you really knew how it looks and what goes on behind those doors, beleive me you'd gross out & not return. i was invited to go & check it out @ night, the guy that makes the bread & pastries smoke his cigarettes while handling the food. get some big kind rats running around playing chase, and then get this. if somebody going invite anyone over please make sure there's no illegal activity going on. some guy's came out from the back side and doing the drug trip right there in the bakery. just like nothing, steven the baker was selling the stuff. i when trip and told him thanks for inviting me, but i got to go.
omg this hot bread is soo ono especially the strawberry and cream cheese.everytime we come like after ten because da ting is so ono.
Kanimakou, yeah, so ono. Thanks for stopping by!
A HAH! HAH! Yep, nothing like a Hot Bread Run at 2AM. Right on somebodyʻs giving Kanemitsu some props. Keep up the great writing.
musubman, besides being the only place open at 2am, it's good bread eh.