Gathered at Easter

The practice started back in college. As holidays rolled around, those of us too far from families would gather together for a communal holiday feast. We started our tradition because going home wasn't always an option, but it never, ever had the stink of desperation of loneliness. Friends drew together because we liked it and we wanted to. Exact attendance would vary right until the last minute, but Thanksgiving and Easter each average about a dozen people. No matter where we've lived, we've tried to bring along this joy of eating in the company of "extended family."

Last night was no different. In the end, we had 15 plus a toddler crowded around a table for six, eating, drinking, talking story and laughing. Dinner was an uber-traditional turkey (second in Easter popularity only to ham), stuffing, yams, mashed potatoes, black-eyed peas, asparagus, deviled eggs, macaroni and cheese, cranberry sauce, coconut cake, brownies, cheesecake and more bottles of wine than I care to count. It wasn't really about the specific food though, but why the food mattered. Daring menus work better on other nights-- for holidays, people are drawn to comforting meals of their pasts, recreated with new friends. Gathered for a relaxing evening, this was the best Easter in memory.

I personally made several items for our feast, but my favorite was the Mandarin Orange Cheesecake. I honestly have no idea where I first acquired this recipe. Looking at the spotted and stained photocopy, I'm guessing it came from a decade old cooking magazine, but there is no attribution. I've also lost the second page with the actual instructions and have made numerous small changes from the original. I'm going to loosely claim this permutation as my own.

Mandarin Orange Cheesecake

Crust:

• 2 oz coarsely grated semisweet chocolate
• 1/2 stick unsalted sweet cream butter, melted
• 7-8 chococate graham crackers, crumbled (1 1/4 c.)

Cheesecake:

• 4 8oz. packages cream cheese at room temp
• 1 1/4 c. sugar
• 4 eggs
• 5 T. Grand Marnier
• 1 c. sour cream

Topping

• 2 11oz. cans mandarin oranges, liquid reserved
• 1/2 c. fresh orange juice
• 1 t. lemon juice

In a double boiler over simmering water, melt chocolate. Remove chocolate from the boiler and stir in the melted butter. Add the wafer crumbs and mix well. Take this mixture and press it firmly into the bottom of a 9 inch springform pan. I found it helpful to wet my fingertips for the intial pressing, refrigerate for 15 minutes, then press again to smooth it out even better. Refrigerate for an hour until cooled.

You need an electric mixer for this next part. You really do. Whip the cream cheese at medium until smooth and creamy. Gradually add sugar beating constantly. Add the eggs one at a time, beating constantly. Add the Grand Marnier, beating constantly. Add the sour cream and... beat constantly. Then beat it another minute or two for good measure. You want this to be creeeeeeeeeamy.

Pour the cheesecake mixture into the springform pan and bake in a 350 degree preheated oven for 35 minutes. The top of the cheesecake should lose its gloss, but the middle will still be wobbly. Stop! Don't take it out. Turn off the oven and leave the cheesecake in there with the oven door about half open. I'm not exactly sure why this is so important, but it has been deeply ingrained into me that cheesecakes must be cooled ever so slowly. When the cheesecake has cooled enough that you can remove it without oven mitts, remove it, set it on a rack and cool it to room temperature. Finally, transfer to the refridgerator and cool several hours more.

While the cheesecake is cooling in the fridge, prepare the glaze. Bring the orange juice, lemon juice and 1/4 of the reserved mandarin syrup to a simmer in a small saucepan. Stir periodically for about five minutes until it thickens. Let it cool to nearly room temperature.

Lay the mandarin oranges neatly on top of the cheesecake and then pour as much glaze as needed over the top. Return to the refrigerator and cool yet again. Finally, save your calorie counting for another time. This is not the dessert for that. Cut yourself a decent slice!